Travel-o-city pt.3

For once I liked New York.

Well, I was only there for one insanely full & crazy day so maybe that's not a good arbiter from which to judge, but still.

1st stop, 1pm - B&J Fabrics

Expensive, but they have a GREAT selection of strange/novelty fabrics like polyethylene (medical gowns), metallic cork, spun vinyl, lenticular (shiny holographic) polyurethane, and liquid vinyl pvc (feels like LATEX!!! I wonder if this would be a good alternative for those allergic to rubber?). I really like also how their bolts of fabrics have a swatch coming out of it so as to better see the fabric, instead of having to pull out the whole thing (Mood fabrics, take note!) *Sigh* next time I have money to burn I will go back there.

2nd stop, 2pm - FIT Dark Glamour exhibit

I had to go again because I have much less time than I would have liked the weekend before, and I'm so, SO glad I re-checked it out. More noteables:

Yohji Yamamoto (Fall 06)

Hussein Chalayan (Fall 05)

Jans Laugesen

Gattinoni (Fall 07)

McQueen's prostetic corset from 1999 - I can't find a picture, damnit! - reminded me SUPER STRONGLY of this piece by AMF Korsets (it had the ribs and everything!):

3rd stop, 5pm - Comme des Garçon (designer: Rei Kawakubo)

First things first, the store is INCREDIBLY designed. Honestly, I'm blown away by it- you walk in and it's like a labyrinth with extremely high walls that look like they are tilting inwards. For the first little while I couldn't even focus on the clothes because I was so distracted by the architecture. When I did start to focus on the clothing, I was confused....but in a good, "I'm really intrigued" way. The current collection is primarily invested in modified mens-style wear- cut out button downs & tuexdo shirts & suit jackets like this:

I like the idea of it, but I think they look pretty hideous on women. On men I think they would look very striking. In fact, I saw mostly men in the store, which I was surprised about.

My favorite piece was definitely this though (reminds me of a piece I made for Dina de Sade last may):

                            Organza/net panniers!!         Photo: Barry Underhill

4th stop, 6pm - Balenciaga (not planned, but it was right next door)

GORGEOUS & beautifully made. I loved loved loved a draped velvet & silk top and in a separate section they had two dress made of latex!!! They were amazing, done in transparent and smoke grey latex with hand-painting and seed pearls. (Perhaps from B&J?)

WOWZA:

I've been interested in printing on latex for a while now, and I think I'll have to get on that.

[Note to the staff however: do not tell me, when I am unfastening something, that "excuse me miss, but that is very delicate" in a condescending tone. I am well aware it is delicate but if I cannot stand up to an unfastening how is it possibly strong enough to wear???]

I did a bunch of other stuff but it's not design related :D Suffice to say it involved glitter & a limo & stage dancing and renewed my interest in making go-go/performance wear.

Speaking of performance, I have decided after some much needed guidance from Liz Collins - my independent study advisor - that I need to think more about the idea of performance in my designs & photographs. What this basically means is that I will be planning out strange poses ahead of time that relate to the garments, as well as shifting gears from hair/make-up as a seperate entity and instead making them a part of the garment.

And I SWEAR I'm working, I just don't have images yet 'cause my camera is out of battery. Soon, soon!

Travel-o-city pt.1

Trip ONE: 

Not this weekend, but the weekend before, my lovely lovely friend Lauren Jack & I (along with my roomie Danielle) did a shoot at the Newport Mansions. Featured in all its full frontal glory were two outfits that I made in collaboration with L. for her senior thesis. I wish I could tell you more but if I give away her concept she'll have my head on a pike. So, all I will say is that the one on the left is made of lavendar & cream pvc (which is plastic, btw) and the one on the right is made of white lace vinyl & pink semi-transparent plastic:

And I have to rant for a second and say how much I GRRRRR CANNOT STAND PVC! Not only is it cheap looking & rarely fits well, it is a HUGE pain to sew. Because of the plasticized coating, it sticks to the machine and will only feed properly if sandwiched between two sheets of wax paper. Personally, I think if you're going for the sexy wet fetish look you should save your pennies and buy nice latex. And I'm not saying that just 'cause I make it :)

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Trip TWO: 

Saturday. 

Ah, New York. I realize everytime I go there how much I don't actually like the place. I keep thinking it'll get better, that I'll like it more someday, but it doesn't happen. Granted, there is so much stuff in one place that it's an incredibly resourceful place to be, but it feels.....empty. dead. substance-less. Le sigh. 

That being said I did get some very productive things done. On the advice of my independent study prof. I checked out Alexander McQueen's store & Jeffrey's in the meatpacking district as well as saw the Gothic: Dark Glamour show at FIT. 

McQueen was....disappointing. I saw some small dirt spots on clothing as well as some loose stiching! I didn't understand! And I realized something: I love the fantasy of fashion, and I LOVED the spectacle that his A/W 2008 collection had, but on the rack the clothes were so...lifeless. They lacked energy and the sumptuousness of seeing them adorn the body. Bah.

His laser cut vinyl lace dress was a neat idea though:

It was interesting to contrast his store with H&M, which I decided to go to afterwards. Although McQueen's store smelled lovely, and had more interesting/avant-garde/fashion-forward pieces, I found that H&M had better sewn, albeit simpler, garments. Not sure why....maybe H&M has more orders, thus larger sweatshops, thus more labor of quality (?) vs. a designer who has less orders and perhaps a smaller workforce? It's a half formed thought but a good idea to pursue at a later date. 

IN RETALIATION, NEXT STOP FOR ME: WEARABLE INSTALLATIONS!

In contrast, the Dark Glamour show was so amazing! And I don't say this because of my weakness for gothy goth goth goth; Valerie Steele curated it and did a spectacular, well rounded show. (Side note: My first introduction to Steele was her book Fetish a few years ago and it is also extremely well written and cohesive.) The organization of it, as well as the pieces chosen, were right on the mark without being condescending or overly cliché.

Favorite designer I discovered: KEI KAGAMI

Gorgeous pieces with glass & medical inspiration. Mmmmmmm. I need to find out more about him. 

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